Ethiopia: Addis Abeba Hosts UN Food Summit, but the Country Is in Crisis

Ethiopia: Addis Ababa hosts UN Food Summit, but the country is in crisis
The choice of location sparks debate

Original article in Italian: Addis Abeba ospita il vertice Onu ma il paese è in crisi 

A crucial event for food security
From July 27 to 29, Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, will host the second Food Systems Summit Stocktake, known as UNFSS+4, exactly four years after the first UN summit on food systems. Political leaders, experts, and UN representatives are expected to attend. This international event is key to assessing progress in the fight against hunger and in agricultural innovation.

Italy’s role: continuity and commitment
Italy will play a central role, with Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni delivering the summit’s opening speech. This reflects continuity, as Rome hosts the main UN food agencies: FAO, IFAD, and WFP. In 2023, Italy successfully hosted the UNFSS+2 Summit. In recognition of that success and its commitment to strengthening cooperation with Africa on food security, the UN formally invited Italy to maintain a central role in the 2025 Addis Ababa edition.

A controversial host country
However, choosing Ethiopia’s capital has sparked controversy. In the past, Addis Ababa would have been the natural choice, being the diplomatic heart of Africa, home to the African Union and other regional institutions. Hosting a food security summit in the continent most affected by hunger could have had powerful symbolic, moral, and political value.

Ethiopia today: crisis and instability
But not in today’s context. Ethiopia is going through one of the most difficult periods in its recent history, marked by ongoing internal conflicts, serious human rights violations, and a devastating food crisis. According to WFP, around 10 million people—3 million of whom are internally displaced—face severe food insecurity. Malnutrition affects 55% of children under five. An internal report states that 26% of the 130 million population lives in poverty.

Conflict and hunger: a worsening situation
The conflict in Tigray (2020–2022) left thousands dead and millions displaced—and that was only the beginning. Fighting has spread to the Amhara and Oromia regions, worsening the instability. In rural areas, farmers can no longer cultivate due to ongoing violence and displacement. Food access is a daily struggle, and even humanitarian aid cannot keep up with the growing number of people in need.

A summit at risk of being just a showcase
Hosting an international food security summit in a country where much of the population is starving can feel like an insult. The causes of Ethiopia’s crisis are not natural but political and military, making this decision all the more controversial.

Ethiopian diplomacy and FAO’s role
Still, the choice of Addis Ababa was not random. Ethiopia has recently engaged in extensive diplomatic efforts to support its candidacy, leveraging both the city’s historical status as Africa’s diplomatic capital and the controversial view of Ethiopia as a model for agriculture. In January, this strategy led to the formation of a joint Ethiopia–FAO committee to organize the summit. Addis Ababa thus secured backing from part of the UN system and some international partners, despite the ongoing conflict.

The alternative: Nairobi, a more coherent choice
Many in diplomatic and academic circles believed another African capital—like Nairobi—would have been safer. Kenya, though not without issues, is seen as one of the continent’s more stable countries, with a strong track record in international cooperation and agricultural development. Nairobi also hosts key UN offices (UNEP and UN-Habitat) and frequently organizes global events. Kenya’s rural areas offer concrete examples of agricultural modernization and sustainable food systems.

Logistical and security concerns
A summit in Nairobi would also have benefited from better logistics and security, aligning more closely with the summit’s goals. Addis Ababa, despite its regional connections, lacks the infrastructure and international accessibility of other capitals. Tensions are high in the city: protests, strikes, media restrictions. These will likely be repressed to ensure the summit’s glossy image—while the harsh local reality remains ignored.

Italy’s participation
Why is Italy co-organizing the summit? Due to its long-standing diplomatic commitment and historical role in food security, acknowledged by the UN. As host of key food agencies and the successful 2023 summit, Italy has earned its credibility. But this also makes the risk greater: being associated with a troubled country under a diplomatic façade that may sweep the crisis under the rug.

A summit that may betray its goals
Choosing Addis Ababa could have affirmed Africa’s central role in the global fight against hunger. But ignoring Ethiopia’s dramatic situation and focusing instead on international showcases and lavish banquets is a betrayal of the summit’s very principles. It means turning one’s back not only on farmers, but also on Ethiopia’s struggling middle class—now told to survive on “bread and bananas.”